- 1 Starting Of Low Voltage Transformer
- 1.1 Safety Parameters
- 1.2 Guiding steps to a quick start –
- 1.3 Planning –
- 1.4 Combined Hub–
- 1.4.1 Installation
- 220.127.116.11 Unboxtransformer:
- 18.104.22.168 Mount transformer:
- 22.214.171.124 Install bulbs and fixtures:
- 126.96.36.199 Excavate wire trenches:
- 188.8.131.52 Run wire:
- 184.108.40.206 Construct transformer connections:
- 220.127.116.11 Assemble fixture and junction connection:
- 18.104.22.168 Examine lamp voltages:
- 22.214.171.124 Tune voltage at transformer:
- 126.96.36.199 Check out input amperage:
- 1.4.1 Installation
- 1.5 Share and Enjoy !
Starting Of Low Voltage Transformer
Low voltage transformer installation and maintenance is safe and there is no risk of electric shock injury. However, there are terms and conditions that may apply, which installers must adhere to, cited by AC Transformer manufacturers.
The following security points may or may not be included in these terms and conditions – the installer is responsible for assuring biddable installation.
- There is a shock risk. Install the power unit at least 5 feet (1.5 m) from the spa or pool and at least 10 feet from any fountain.
- The supply power should be connected to a GFCI shielded receiver (using the supplied power cord). In the case the receiver is placed outdoors, it should be protected with a weatherproof cover. Only licensed electricians can operate on 120V wiring.
- All power supplies are rated indoors and out-door, but Control Transformer manufacturers recommend to mount the transformer out-door. If mounted indoors, apply the same codes that apply to indoor wiring – especially for wires that go through exterior walls.
- The supply power should be installed with the bottom plate at least 1 foot vertically from the ground.
Guiding steps to a quick start –
- Unpack the transformer.
- Go through the safety instructions.
- Run wires from the transformer to hubs or fixtures.
- Affix all wires to 12V tap.
- The expedient voltage at fixtures.
- If needed, move wires to accurate voltage taps to gain acceptable voltage at fixtures.
- If desiderated, connect timer and photocell.
- Set up a timer.
- Examine whether all the connections are secure or not.
Transformer selection is mainly based on Total Fixture Load:
Total Fixture Load (volt-amps or watts) ÷ 0.7 = Minimum Transformer Capacity
*For LEDs: If the system boasts LED light sources, then fixture wattage values must be divided by a typical value of 0.7 (if actual pf is not known) or “power factor (pf )”.
Check out common and voltage tap load:
There are two sorts of connectors (Terminal Blocks) in the transformer which is used to conjugate wires. The first one, common taps are utilized to connect one leg of each paired wire coming from the field. The other leg from each pair is connected to one of the other kinds of taps, known as voltage taps. Common taps and voltage taps have different requirements for the load.
Select the wire:
Distinct wire gauges (for example #10/2 or #12/2) have varying load limits. For this fact, you need to choose a wire type and adjudge how many fixtures you can add to each wire.
Presage voltage taps:
Every volt transformers are Multi-Tap – giving you a chance for selecting voltages for your wire run connections. Selecting a high voltage at the transformer compensates for the voltage that may be lost along with wire runs. The aim is to provide every single fixture with an acceptable voltage.
- Halogen Lights – Acceptable range is 10.5V to 12.0V
- LED Lights – Acceptable range is 9V to 15V
- Wiring procedures:
There are three main types of wiring procedures to supply power to lighting fixtures.
Hub approach- Single home wire from the transformer to the junction box. From that box, some pieces of fixtures are attached. This is the preferred approach for halogen light sources.
Daisy chain & T-approach- Every single fixture is connected to a single wire in a continuous network chain. When the transformer is connected to the first fixture, it is a daisy chain; when connected to the center fix-tour, it is T-type. Both methods cause significant voltage loss from the first to the last part (although the T-type is superior) and should only be used for the fixture with short runs and wide voltage ranges (LEDs).
This is used completely for LED systems and this is the supreme method to conserve wire and labor while still supplying acceptable voltage at these low-wattage fixtures stated by Variable Voltage Transformers manufacturers.
Open the shipping carton and conscientiously remove the transformer, hardware and accessories. Bottom plate hardware is included but transformer mounting hardware not included.
Mount the transformer to a solid surface or use stainless steel screws and anchors (optional). The screws pass through the keyholes. Use the bubble level to ensure vertical mounting. The bottom of the transformer should be at least 1 foot to the ground.
Install bulbs and fixtures:
Place fixtures in final positions and install lights (bulbs) if necessary.
Excavate wire trenches:
Using a slender spade or shovel or spade, excavate trenches (6″deep) to run the wire through all the fixtures.
Starting from the transformer, leave an additional 3 feet of wire, and then run the wires through the trenches to the fixture positions and junction. Mark both ends with the colored tape provided for each string implied by Industrial Transformer manufacturers. Record the position of the wire run on the back of the transformer lid. Place a color dot on the form to match the color of the wire to the form entry.
Construct transformer connections:
Loosen the screws holding the bottom plate and remove the plate. Run the lighting cables through the knockouts on the bottom plate. Separate the legs from each pair of wires, strip wires 1” from the end. Interject 1 leg from each pair into the 12V tap. Insert one leg from each pair into one of the common taps (if more than one is common, extend the field wires evenly over all common). Make sure all connecting screws are tight and safe.
Assemble fixture and junction connection:
If necessary, cut and remove the fixture wires for connection to the field wires. Connect these wires to the temporary dry connections with ordinary wire nuts so that the voltages can be checked before sealing the connections.
However, if there is a bi-pin input in the fixture, the voltage can be checked there – so the wire connections can be completed and sealed.
Examine lamp voltages:
Return to the transformer; plug in the 120 V receptacle and turn the switch on all secondary breakers. Constant Voltage Transformers manufacturers suggested checking the voltage in each fixture with a voltmeter and making sure you have the correct voltage for the bulb or the integrated LED source.
Tune voltage at transformer:
Go back to the transformer, turn off all the secondary breakers, and then take each fixture wire (one at a time) if necessary and move each wire to the correct voltage tap which will increase the voltage to an acceptable range.
Check out input amperage:
Your transformer is given a long loop in the optional photocell outlet. Use this loop to measure the input current. Take measurement of current by tightening it to the Amp Meter around the loop.
Mr. Neeraj is a renowned creative head at Muskaan Power Infrastructure ltd. With years and years of experience writing IT Services and content marketing, she has an exceptional writing style that shines through in her guest posts. Mr. Neeraj has a successful career in creative writing before fulfilling her dream of becoming a creative head of the company.